Last quarter at Cal State; East Bay, I was required to write a paper for my class in Human Sexuality. I started off with looking into the world of the dominatrix and found that my time was a little scarce in order to find a domina to interview. Therefore, I decided to stick to something that I was a little more familiar with; Photography. Here was the fruits of my effort. I hope that it is insightful, and perhaps, even helpful. One thing before you continue to read. I understand that in the paper I mention three models, and I'm only showing photos of 'Kyoka Ichinoya', but the other models asked me not to posts their photos up, and I will respect their decision. Thanks for understanding!
Part 1: What is the topic? What is the significance of the issue?
Being a photographer, it was not a hard choice to for me to find something that was relevant to human sexuality. I have been told many times that my hobby and job was degrading and harmful to women. The remarks have always made me think about what I was doing. Am I actually hurting the image of women through the photos that I am taking? Or am I helping them as a model and their self esteem as a person? It was never really evident whether the photos were best for them, me or the both of us. Therefore, after looking at a few different ideas, the best way to find out the solution to this question, is to ask the people who are having their photo taken. The subject of the investigation will be about women being empowered or being held back through modeling.
The subjects that will have their photos taken and be interviewed will be inside of the following requirements. First, the research will be to understand from the female perspective. Meaning that we will be trying to understand the question from the female point of view. Second, their ages will fall between nineteen and twenty-nine. Lastly, the models will be from the bay area (San Francisco), and of different ethnicities. I have been able to achieve two models and a non-model to agree to photo shoots and interviews. In doing so, the hope is to understand both sides of the coin. It is hard for people to say that they dislike something that they do, when they are so invested into it, and therefore, having a person who is modeling for the first time, will give a good information from her opinions about female models.
Doing the multiple interviews and shoots is to find out what they believe their lifestyles are like because of photography. Being a photographer, I have heard many different misconceptions, myths, and stereotypes of what and who models are. It is interesting to hear popular misconceptions like models are not smart, whiners, and pompous, amongst many other degrading thoughts. The models when asked, were very well aware of these stereotypes, but begged to differ and I was in total agreement with them. The interviews turned out to be a very informational, interesting, and most importantly, insightful to the views and opinions from the models perspective.
Part II: Breadth and Scope
When wondering about if being a model is degrading, or empowering, we would need to look at the fact that this would affect thousands of women around the world. According to “Model Mayhem”, an extremely popular site for models to get into contact with photographers, within a hundred mile radius of San Francisco, there are more than 10,400 women models that are actively looking for work, or modeling. When you do a world search, there are more than 650,000 women that are active on that web site alone. This doesn’t include women that are modeling for Fords models, or on other websites like “onemodel.com”. Being that I am a member of Model Mayhem, as a photographer, I found it amazing how many women’s lives could be impacted by such an issue.
To understand the problem it was easier to split it up into two sections; the first being that women are degraded, and the second that women are empowered. So lets start with the fact that modeling is degrading to women. A legend in her own right, and one that is very well known around the United States, is the very beautiful and photogenic Marilyn Monroe. “She epitomizes the struggle against Hollywood’s star system, against female stereotypes, and against her own insecurities” (Benzel 1). Meaning that Marilyn was a victim of the modeling world. She was in a fight against the objectifying of herself, and trying to have people see her for the person that she really was. There are many photos of Marilyn Monroe, but the most memorable one is the one where she is wearing the least amounts of clothes. “Early biographies, adhering to the description of Monroe as a visual sexual object of the male gaze, reinforce the conventional stereotype of sex goddess” (Benzel 1). When breaking apart the wording of the sentence we can see that Marilyn was not a sexual “being or person”, but an object for men to look at. It also gives the impression that men have a certain superiority to her, and that they were degrading her to an object to be stared at, like an animal at the zoo. We can only hope that Marilyn was getting paid well to do these types of movies, photo shoots, and advertisements.
Looking at advertisements today, we can see all sorts of different views of women in the media. In “Killing Us Softly”, Professor Kilborne introduces us to different aspects of women being degraded in advertisements. Kilborne speaks about “advertisements having an image of women that is unachievable, and the growing culture in the United States that it is achievable.” That is a scary thought. Being a photographer, it is understood that photos will be edited to perfection. On the other hand, does the young woman, or even worse young girl, understand that it was an image that was edited to an unattainable goal? Certainly, we all hope so, but that does not answer the question. To make matters worse, there are a lot of commercials that are showing “only a part of a woman, and actually cutting them up and objectifying only a certain part of the woman” (Kilborne). This means that women in these commercials are not only being objectified, but only a part of them is getting objectified. The commercials lose a lot of the personality behind the model, especially if the face is not being shown, and making a woman just an object of desire. There is another side to the view of women inside of media though, and Professor Camille Paglia has quite some insight to this issue.
Arguably, the most degrading of women in photography is pornography, women getting paid to have their photo taken in a sexual manner, but Professor Camille Paglia, from the University of Arts in Philadelphia, argues the other way on the issue. “I maintain that pornographic magazines must be available universally... However, we may reasonably ask that display of these magazines may be restricted” (James 15). This is a reasonable request, when we look at it logically. Pornography is a form of expression, and there is consent in making the art form, therefore it should be allowed. On the other hand, photos of scantily clad, or nude, women should not be forced feed to people that do not want to see it. Professor Paglia goes on to play devils advocate in the fact that “...many people say that pornography degrades women, but what about gay male pornography? It is an enormous industry, a worldwide industry. And no one says anything bad about the gay boys in those magazines” (James 16). A very true statement of homosexual men. Do we over look them because they are men? They are models that are being objectified just as much as women, but “...exposure of genitals, exposure of the [male] body is a celebration of the body- not a degradation” (James 16). Meaning that we celebrate the male form, but unfairly degrade the female body. Perhaps we should change that thought, as well as look from the female models point of view.
At every university that has an art program there always will be the fine art nude that the public is very well assaulted with in media, without really understanding what the life models are doing and achieving. Life, or artistic nude, model Yvonne Eller wrote a very interesting article in the Guardian about the life and times of a modern life model. She speaks about the love for the art, and how it helps empower her. “I have no (lingering) body hang-ups, and delight in the idea that, when I’m eighty, I’ll look back at what I did at twenty-two...” (Eller). Modeling has helped her gain a value to her own self esteem, and see the beauty inside of herself. Through the modeling, she was able to also better understand her body and mind and how they work in junction. Another model that Yvonne interviewed express that “... she felt more comfortable in her skin than dressed up... and loved the fact that all she needed to turn up to a job was literally herself” (Eller). This shows quite the bit of confidence in oneself, to be able to be nude in front of a camera, or any other art media, is quite difficult. It is the most ideal of situations, when we think about it, the love of ones body for what they are. As Yvonne brilliantly puts it, “... it is a celebration of beauty”.
Part III: Cultural Beliefs and Attitudes or Experiences
In my own journey, I was able to find quite a bit more than I was expecting in the interviews and photo shoots that were done. The interviews were insightful, and extremely enthralling in finding out what women thought about one another regardless if they were models or not. Through the series of interviews the questions became less, and the answers seemed to lengthen. Asking questions like: Who is beautiful? What is their idea of beauty? What are advertisements and magazines doing to women? We are only at the tip of the theoretical iceberg.
Lucky enough for me, I was able to meet some great models while I was shooting around the bay area, and Kee was kind enough to sit down and really give me a great piece of her mind to help understand what it is like to be a female model. She has been modeling about four years and described modeling being like “the starving musician” (Kee). Meaning that life of a model is not always about the glamour and ritz, but when you are in the beginning stages it really is an uphill battle. This is an interesting misconception that many people have about the models, always being pampered and dolled upon, but they do have to start somewhere. Meaning that they were doing their own makeup, and getting their own wardrobes ready in order to have their careers move. Kee informed me that she wanted to be a model since a very young age, and was actually scouted before by a modeling agency. It is intriguing to start thinking about being a model, and the steps to becoming a model. Being interested in that, the “why” aspect was to come next, why be a model?
For her it was a decision of meeting new people, being proud of herself, and being very confident. Contrary to popular belief, not all models are outgoing and “strutting” around on their off days. Kee referred to herself as a “person who likes to stay home and play on the computer, but through modeling is able to go outside into the world and meet new people”. An interesting thought when we look at the stereotype, that models are not shy and are very outgoing people. When Kee is not modeling, she is a very different person. This different side to her while she models, makes her even more amazing to us, she is a great model takes direction very well, and is confident with her body. Her posing in the photos helps us see this confidence. “It makes me feel happy, and isn’t that why we do anything? It’s basically empowerment in a sense... because hey I can do this [modeling] as well as a professional [model]” (Kee). As well she should feel great about the modeling that she does. A very talented individual, who is finding empowerment through the world of photography.
Yet, although the greatest feeling of empowerment to her was at a convention that she went to and was asked to have her photos taken various times, there still are times where Kee felt like “a piece of meat” (Kee). There was a few questions that led into the conversation, but it was actually before the interview even happened that I was informed of there being discomfort during shoots at times. “There is a difference between photographers. It is mainly the photographers that objectify you, especially in costume...” (Kee). Interesting, so it is about the photographer who is objectifying the model. It is also upsetting, because photographers should be the ones who are lifting up the spirits, not skirts, of the models and making them feel better about themselves. “[With a certain photographer] ... I felt like a piece of meat, and they would order me to stand this way... and every time I come into contact with them, it is really heavy with the sexual innuendoes” (Kee). At which point there is not as much fun, or happiness, any longer. Thank goodness for the good photographers that are “helpful, comforting, and encouraging” (Kee), because they are the ones that really do help models come into being true models. It is important at all times that the photographer make the model feel safe and comfortable. These feelings come through in the photos, and if someone is nervous or scared, no matter how good the lighting and setup is, the photo will show a nervous and scared model.
This leads us into the next interview with Prudence. A non-model, or just your regular college student, Prudence was able to give insight on what an average university student felt about the whole modeling world. Not to say that she was never in front of the lens before, Prudence was part of her high schools photography club, and has experience with being in front of a lens, as well as behind it. She just never took to doing either as a job. “My expectations of a model, limited me from being a model... they are super skinny, and tall” (Johnson). This is the usual response and a misconception of what models are. Not that they are not tall and skinny at times, but with the amount of photoshop that is done on photos now, most the average person can become that amazing bombshell on a magazine cover. As Kilborne is quoted above, most models are at an unachievable point. Moving further into the interview was engaging to me. What struck me most from the conversation with Prudence was the attitude with models that she had. “They are just another person trying to make a buck” (Johnson). After doing our photo session, there was no real change in ideology. This is actually how she felt before the shoot as well, as I was informed. It could not be more down to earth for an answer. Following with the question about racier magazines, and photoshopping, Prudence told me that she “believes that if you can make money on it, flaunt it. On the other hand photoshopping is horrid, and should not be done”. A fascinating response with the understanding that she did earlier mention that the models were “super skinny and tall”. As well as, the idea that the models are getting paid for what they do. The next model and interviewee, actually models on the side.
Kyoka Ichinoya has been in the business for a while now, starting in junior high school and continuing to now. The biggest thing is, Kyoka does her modeling for “herself and her confidence, rather than money”. Meaning that the sense of self wealth is greater than any dollar amount she can get. She is also the stark opposite of most of the stereotypes of models. Most believe that models are not intelligent? Well, Kyoka has a double major in Operations and Mechanical Engineering. That is right, she is an engineer, and a really good one. What about the outspoken and loud demeanor associated with models? She is really shy and quiet when it comes to things that are not modeling, and modeling “allows her to be a different person than she is at home, and be very outgoing” (Ichinoya). It is almost comical, I have worked with Kyoka on many occasions, and she is the epitome of that loud model, but when we get together for dinner or just to hang out, she does not speak all that much. Her greatest love for modeling is from “making friends and seeing the products of her work” (Ichinoya). Meaning that us becoming friends, and working together were essential in her continuing modeling. Not only us though, but all the other photographers, makeup artist, and models that she has worked with. It is a comforting to know that us becoming friends and working together has helped her out in feeling self confidence and being empowered as well as it has helped me out in learning better photographic techniques and working with models.
All the interviews were very informative in letting me know how the models felt, and how to not make mistakes when working with them. Their photos sessions were also fun, comfortable, and educational. We were all able to learn from one another and help each other advance in our photographic backgrounds. Most of all, I was able to learn that we were helping each other, and what I was doing was helping rather than hurting the images of these models. They were also very helpful in telling me that I was not condescending or making them feel like a piece of meat, but rather comforting and encouraging. In doing this project, I was able to learn how to better myself not only as a photographer, but as a person.
Part IV: Link to Broader Cultural, Political, and Economic Issues
Looking at women as sexual objects, is an issue that has been around for ages. Ever since the first artist took whatever media they were using to express the beauty of a model, there was debate over the objectifying of the model. Throughout this university course [Human Sexuality] there have been many related books and videos to this subject.
The first video that pops up into my mind is Live Nude Girls Unite!, directed by Vicky Funari and Julia Query. Although the video is about the unionization of adult entertainers in the dancing business, there is a key part in the video, where Julia is talking about her looks. “I wanted to become blonde, and they [management] were asking me why” (Query). This was solely about the way she was looking, and it did not matter that she wanted to change, but management was not going to let her. Furthermore, calling in sick, a key reason for the women to want to unionize, used to require “a girl that ‘looked’ exactly the same, in order not to lose the pay rate that they work so hard to get too” (Query). The women were being treated just like product that was being exposed for the viewing pleasure of the audience. They were not being treated like people, and only felt the empowerment of what they were doing, which essentially is nude modeling, after fighting for themselves and becoming unionized.
In the book Nisa, the Life and Words of a !Kung Woman, by Marjorie Shostak, we are introduced to the culture of women in a tribe in Africa. Nisa at one point in the book, asks her ex-husband why she is being treated like an item that he wants to continually take her away from her new husband (Shostak 231). After a bad break, she left her husband, and found a new man. The only problem is the ex-husband refuses to let go of her, and comes back repeatedly asking for her to come back. Her empowerment came from her choice, and being strong willed. There was also another form of female empowerment in the book, when Marjorie writes about a woman that was a hunter, and a good one, but was looked at from society weirdly because of her hobby. Again, the woman is able to do that only because she doesn’t care about what the others were saying, and living life the way she wanted too. It was a very fascinating look at the lives of !Kung women.
The most interesting book that I read while in class was definitely Peggy Orenstein’s, Cinderella Ate My Daughter. This showed us a different side of all categories for women. From toys to lifestyles, there were major changes that Orenstein spoke about. One of the most arresting topics that she touched on, was the child pageantry. Orenstein starts by telling us how poor it is for the girls, and that they are being treated pretty much like a piece of meat. Only, half way through the show, Orenstein comments herself “I think my own daughter can win this” (91). Meaning that she forgot how objectifying the pageant was, and she thought that it was even nice. Of course being there for an extended period of time did help that thought come out. “The affirmation of her beauty will indeed build her confidence...” (Orenstein 94). If pageantry modeling is not the epitome of what we know modeling as, think Miss Universe / America, then I really do not know what is. Here Orenstein is telling us that winning the crown, or tiara, can actually help the self esteem of a girl grow.
Lastly, in the video Black is... Black Ain’t, Marlon Riggs really brings us into the world of a the homosexual African American from the south. He is able to really let us delve inside of our being, and to understand “What is black”? It is a sense of who we are, and what we appreciate. This is a cheer to help build self confidence in ourselves, like models should regardless of the style that they are in. Furthermore, when Riggs goes around Louisiana asking people what their definition of ‘Creole’ was, he was given so many different answers. Meaning that even though there can be a group of people, it is their individualities that really let it shine through. Relating that to modeling, the women need to know how to let their own personalities show off their personalities, and not think that it is going to hold them back. Riggs really makes a heart touching film, and I hope that many people can watch and learn as much as I did from it, if not more.
Throughout the past couple of weeks, various hours of photo sessions and interviews have past, and I have been able to learn quite a bit. The most important being how important it is for me to be careful in my photography. I am the one that can make or break a model, and it can be just through my words alone. It is important to make every model that has their confidence, self esteem and business portfolio built through the photography. In doing so the women can not only feel empowered through modeling, but also build their confidence and become successful in the field that they have chosen.
Works Cited
Benzel, Kathryn. "The Body as Art: Still Photographs of Marilyn Monroe." Journal of
Popular Culture. 25.2 (1991): 1-29. Web. 4 Mar. 2012.
Eller, Yvonne. "The naked truth about life models."Guardian. (2009): n. page. Web. 5 Mar. 2012.
Ichinoya, Kyoka. Personal Interview. 04 Mar 2012.
James, Martin. "An interview with Camille Paglia."America. 171.15 (1994): 10-18. Web. 4 Mar.
2012.
Johnson, Prudence. Personal Interview. 06 mar 2012.
Kee. Personal Interview. 07 mar 2012.
Kilborne, Jean, writ. Killing Us Softly 3: Advertising's Image of Women. Dir. Sut Jhally. Media Education Foundation, 1999. Film.
Orenstein, Peggy. Cinderella Ate My Daughter, Dispatches From The Front Lines Of The New Girlie-Girl Culture. New York, NY: Harper, 2011. Print.
Query, Julia, dir. Live Nude Girls Unite!. Dir. Vicky Funari. First Run Features, 2000. Web. 15 Feb 2012.
Riggs, Marlon, dir. Black is... Black Ain’t. Independent Television Company, 1994. Film.
Shostak, M. Nisa, the life and words of a !kung woman. Cambridge: Harvard University Press,
